What you'll need:
This camouflaged hook fixture adds a modern touch to any room of the house!
• Wood Screws
• 1/4" Metal Rod
• Stain and paint brush
• 1x2 sanded furring strips for pivot hooks
• 1x3 sanded furring strips for other hooks + foundation
• Picture Hangers
• Wood glue or liquid nails
Cut foundation: 2 foot long wood strip.
Begin your rack by first deciding how long you'd like it to be. We determined the right size for our wall to be about 2' long. Cut a foundation to the desired end length for your rack using a Dremel Saw-Max. This foundation will be what you affix your design and hooks onto. You can use most any wood strip as your foundation. We decided to use our 1x3 inch furring strip material.
Measure and mark the cut on your material. Clamp your material to your workbench. Using your Saw-Max tool fit with a SM500 Wood and Plastic blade, cut along your marked line.
Notice how easy the line is to follow through the notch at the front of your tool!
Cut filler material to desired lengths, adding slight variation.
Once you have your foundation, it is time to start cutting pieces that will mount onto your base, giving your hook rack a unique, modern design. In step 3 we will describe how to cut your wood pieces that will become hooks. For now, concentrate on cutting the pieces that will make up the majority of your rack.
We decided to make our rack around 10 inches in height. We cut our pieces at all different lengths to add to the interesting, staggered design. The number of pieces you'll need to mount to your foundation depend on the length you chose. We cut around 30 pieces of our 1x3 material.
Using the same cutting technique as in step 1, make straight cuts with your Saw-Max tool at varying lengths. We cut all of our pieces around 8" to 10" long.
Angle cut actual hooks 1x2s with miter cut for desired locations 45 degree rests against the wall when extended out.
To make your 1x2 pieces act as hooks, you must cut the bottom of those pieces at a 45 degree angle. When you mount those pieces, the angled bottom of the hook will sit flush against the wall when extended out. Note the diagram on the left. Making 45 degree cuts for these pieces is simple using the Saw-Max and Miter Guide.
Fit your Dremel Saw-Max tool with a SM600 Wood and Plastic Flush Cutting Wheel. Measure and mark your desired length. Here we made our 5 hook pieces around 8" long. Now, slide the guide back just slightly, leaving 1/8" of space between your intended cut and the guide to account for the offset of the blade.
Clamp the guide down and make your cut.
Drill the actual hooks and 2 side planks.
To allow your hooks to pivot in and out from your rack, you'll need to create a pivot point. To do this, sandwich one hook piece in between the two filler pieces you straight cut in step 2. With the flat ends of the planks lined up, drill a hole through all three pieces, about 1 inch from the bottom of the planks.
We used a 1/4" drill bit to clear enough room for our 1/4" metal rod. Complete this action for all of your hook pieces.
Cut metal piece to put through pivot point 1/4" metal rod
Now that you have your pivot areas drilled, you'll need to insert your metal rod through each set of the three "pivot planks".
Measure the depth of your 3 plank sets. If you are using 1" thick strips as we did, your pivot plank sets should be just under 3" in depth. You will only need to cut rod long enough to fit through each set.
Once you mount all of your planks onto the foundation in step 6, you'll notice that the rod is held into place by butting up the adjoining 1x3 filler pieces next to the pivot areas.
Mark your lines of cut on your rod. Next, secure your rod in a vice. Using your SM20 with a Metal Cutting Wheel, cut along your marked lines.
Glue all planks to foundation (NOT HOOKS).
Apply wood glue or liquid nails to your foundation piece. Only apply enough to mount 1-2 planks at a time, remembering not to apply glue to portions that your hook will rest on, as it needs to be able to pivot in and out from the foundation.
Once your glue is dry and your racking firmly into place, you can paint or stain it any way you like!
Mount onto wall with a picture frame hanger.
When your final piece is dry and complete, attach a picture frame hanger to the back for easy mounting onto your wall.
Depending on the type of wood or size of material you used, you may want to use two picture hangers.
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